Nuts and bolts? In 2021 Botanic re-launched: same glorious location, superb new fit-out, chef, team; $220 set menu, $150 wine pairing. Take or leave.
All I knew was that Justin James was Irish and ex Vue de Monde. Um… you’re not on your Pat there.
Exec chef at VdM for five years; Noma, Eleven Madison Park and Blue Hill at Stone Barns before that. So that’s possibly the three most influential chefs/restaurants in the world right now: Redzepi, Humm and Barber.
Their loss. James’s thing is the gardens as both inspiration and larder, and it’s not just silly rhetoric.
Dinner consists of about 20 elements rolled out across an extended sitting, the pressure of expectation rising at each turn; it’s not a rollercoaster, it’s a trajectory.
Intriguing eggplant here; crisp veal sweetbread there; shiitake fudge, of all things, as a petit four.